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NeoAngelo
PostPosted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 12:49 pm    
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Renesis
Renesis

Joined: 06 Oct 2009
Posts: 520
Location: Tampa, FL

Ok guys, here's round two of troubleshooting. At WOT, the car still get sluggish in the higher RPMs, sometimes even stopping during acceleration and shaking violently while the check engine light flashes. When I shift gears, it goes back to normal, then does it again. It's in different places on the power band and only seems to happen at WOT. Cleaned the MAF, TB, new plugs, wires and coils, cleaned the air filter, did an Indian rain dance... Nothing.

Also worth noting, as most of you know, I lost my A/C a few weeks ago. I cut the belt off of it, though I doubt that has anything to do with anything. Is there anything else for me to check before I re-assemble my VFAD and take it to the dealer?
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NeoAngelo
PostPosted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 1:03 pm    
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Renesis
Renesis

Joined: 06 Oct 2009
Posts: 520
Location: Tampa, FL

I don't have a rough idle, which is one of my many telltale signs or a decaying motor. I'm not sure what it could be, tbh.

Also, I called Mazda. $95 for an engine diagnostic. If the motor's bad, it's replaced, you get a rental and the diagnostic is free. If it's something else, it's $95 out of pocket and then they tell you what needs to be fixed.

*sigh*
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Hellhammer
PostPosted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 9:17 pm    
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Reman Renesis
Reman Renesis

Joined: 13 Oct 2007
Posts: 882
Location: The Abyss

I'm going to ask you a semi-stupid question. When you did your plugs and everything did you reset your fuel trims and ecu ?
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NeoAngelo
PostPosted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 10:43 pm    
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Renesis
Renesis

Joined: 06 Oct 2009
Posts: 520
Location: Tampa, FL

I did, but I guess it wouldn't hurt to do it again, just incase I did something wrong. I wouldn't mind at all if it was something stupid like that. XD The car did this before, I couldn't go over 4k RPMs. Between the absolutely destroyed plugs, the decaying wires and the half-melted coils, it was understanding. After replacing all of the above, it ran like a brand new car. A few weeks later, now sometimes I get killer acceleration and sometimes it's sluggish, sometimes it won't climb, stopping at a random RPM and acting like it's broken. I'll reset everything again before I leave for work tomorrow and see if that helps.
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Hellhammer
PostPosted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 11:49 pm    
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Reman Renesis
Reman Renesis

Joined: 13 Oct 2007
Posts: 882
Location: The Abyss

might also want to verify the plug wires are all seated good.
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04' Titanium - R-Magic Kit - 19x8.5/9.5 Axis Matrix Wheels - Slotted/Dimpled Rotors - Hawk Ceramic Brake Pads - Racing Beat Sway Bars -Racing Beat Exhaust - RP Super Cat. - Tein S Techs - SR Motorsports Pulleys
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rotoryrican
PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 6:56 am    
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Rotor
Rotor

Joined: 05 Dec 2007
Posts: 498
Location: Deltona

Do you have a code of anykind?
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NeoAngelo
PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 12:19 pm    
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Renesis
Renesis

Joined: 06 Oct 2009
Posts: 520
Location: Tampa, FL

Nope. My CEL starts flashing when the car starts shaking and stop accelerating. When I shift it disappears. It's never solid and it never stays on for any period of time.
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rotoryrican
PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 3:54 pm    
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Rotor
Rotor

Joined: 05 Dec 2007
Posts: 498
Location: Deltona

I just had that problem. With me it meant it was missing. If it does it enough, it should stay on and give you a miss fire code. It was coils on the front rotor. I had it the day we went to Universal. Replaced them and it's been since then with no more issues or lights. I thought I have a bad motor cause I had no power but my idle was fine. It was the Leading one that was completely out but i did the trailing too just incase. They are $32 at Cory fairbanks.
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NeoAngelo
PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 9:30 pm    
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Renesis
Renesis

Joined: 06 Oct 2009
Posts: 520
Location: Tampa, FL

It's irritating because it comes and goes. Sometimes at idle it feels like it's missing. The plugs are roughly three months old and the plugs and wires are less then a month. It's acting just like it used to when it would misfire, but when it misfired the code would stick, now the CEL just flashes then disappears
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EHT
PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 12:01 pm    
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High Mile Rotary *SM*
High Mile Rotary *SM*

Joined: 21 Oct 2007
Posts: 1092
Location: Probably driving my 8

Welcome to the world rotary.

You should all the noises and light I have. At least your CEL goes out. Mine likes to blink and then goes out when the little red radiator light comes on. Get some little black dot stickers to hide the annoying lights.

My best guess is because it is so hot outside. When I drove mine everyday the hot days in th 90-100's would do the same thing. Thats when I got the AEM CAI and it helped a bit. Now it is just old.
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NeoAngelo
PostPosted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 12:04 am    
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Renesis
Renesis

Joined: 06 Oct 2009
Posts: 520
Location: Tampa, FL

I was actually going to ask that. It's my daily driver, 40 miles to work every day. Temps are right around 100, as everyone here knows. I drive pretty normal until I get to the highways, that's when I try to push it, but it's hit or miss. I'm using the stock intake, K&N drop-in, VFAD delete. *shrugs* I'm running out of ideas.
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'04 Titanium Grey 6spd "Reese"
K&N Drop-In|Greddy SP2 Exhaust|2 10" Audiobahns|EvoR CF Hood|Tanabe GF210's|Amazing Wife. Wink
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rotoryrican
PostPosted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 8:01 am    
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Rotor
Rotor

Joined: 05 Dec 2007
Posts: 498
Location: Deltona

EHT wrote:
Welcome to the world rotary.

You should all the noises and light I have. At least your CEL goes out. Mine likes to blink and then goes out when the little red radiator light comes on. Get some little black dot stickers to hide the annoying lights.

My best guess is because it is so hot outside. When I drove mine everyday the hot days in th 90-100's would do the same thing. Thats when I got the AEM CAI and it helped a bit. Now it is just old.


It a bad sensor in the res. Just unplug it and the light will never come on again. i did it to mine and my girls cause hers started to do it this summer. Just be sure to check the fluids which i know we all do anyway.
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NeoAngelo
PostPosted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 9:46 pm    
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Renesis
Renesis

Joined: 06 Oct 2009
Posts: 520
Location: Tampa, FL

My red one did that. If I went over 90 or did any spirited driving the radiator light would come on. My gray one's never done that, thankfully.
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m4f1050
PostPosted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 8:57 am    
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Turbine
Turbine

Joined: 26 Dec 2007
Posts: 1307

+1 on resetting ECU and +1 unplugging the reservoir sensor, I removed my reservoir & sensor completely out and the light went away.

You might want to try an injector cleaner or two in gas tank just for fun. If it's at WOT it might be one of your primary 2 injectors.

I have a fuel pressure gauge and air/fuel gauge, which I can troubleshoot my fuel pressure/fuel pump. Not a bad thing to add, and it won't cost you more than $300.

Get it plugged in OBD-II it might have a "pending" CEL
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